Get out there and get one
For me November has always been a bewildering time of year. Nearing the end of another ‘shoulda woulda coulda’ 12 months, and so it begins, a period of pensiveness, reflection, melancholy for what hasn’t been, and eventually an unfaltering and naive optimism for what might be in the year ahead.
It’s a time to think of the waves I didn’t catch, that blue 7’2 single fin I didn’t get to ride and that inspired summer suit I was just too seasonably late to debut. There were the camper trips we didn’t make time for, beach days we waited too long for the “right weather” for, and the dawnys we were just a little too tired for.
Then of course there was the first family camp of the year, not telling my brother-in-law he shouldn’t tuck his wetsuit into his boots, watching my sisters face as she caught her first ever wave, falling in love with it just like I did.
As much as there is to wish had been different, there is twice as much to be grateful for, and there is always inspriation to be found. The late Barry ‘Magoo’ McGuigan, probably the oldest competitive surfer in the world before he sadly passed away, his thoughts were unassuming, his aspirations simple and his motivation inspiring, he thought positively about surf, life, and his wife who gave him the desire to just keep on going. Still Swell at 85 is his perception of being involved with surfing since the advent of the sport and how surfing shaped his philosophy to life.
We could all use a little Magoo in our lives, to find the time to do things, to not spend too much time pondering what has gone and what could have been, and to just “get out there and get one”.